Wednesday, August 27, 2008

surf report: pleasure point


ok....surf report.....we went to pleasure point this morning....the bigger surf spot i told you about last time. i still had a little trepidation about the cliff and the rocks and stuff...but i braved it anyways. it was a lot easier today. i didn't fall...and i didn't feel like i was going to fall either. ace! the sky's were clear and blue...sun was out. and yours truly caught two waves, full on. all i wanted was to NOT get skunked today...and i did better then that! awesome. it was practically a scene from endless summer (thanks bob). so i feel good. more confident about going back there next time. i guess it did help that i reviewed my 'how to surf pleasure point' article in surfing magazine. ha! i know...i'm a dill. but seriously...it was a great morning. i had my pico pica with my homemade burritos. all is well with the world....less of me...more of you!

cheers!

5 comments:

Sharon said...

Yeah! I'm so glad you had a great surf day! I was praying for you!

Pastor's Perspective said...

Duuuuuuuuuuuuuude! Proud of you J.

Chelle said...

Good for you. That's awesome!

Natalie said...

"Dill?"
"Ace?"
So proud of you handling the ocean like that!!!

Lauren said...

Yay Jeramy!!! Two full-on waves, that is great!

I gotta admit, I totally thought dill was an alden reference until I saw your link. I don't remember if that's what dill meant in his movie, but wasn't the name of it "Dill"?

Anyway, I am wondering how much of that Australian slang you are adopting, this could get interesting...