child of god, lover of sharon, father of 5, future farmer...oh, and i play a little guitar too.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
surf report: small fish....big pond
i love surfing. seriously. but i hate getting up at 4:00am. not to mention after staying out until midnight with my beautiful wife while nursing a runny nose and headache....needless to say, it was brutal this morning.
so, i've been warned for months now that our regular surf spot would dry up after the summer time and that we'd have to move down the coast a bit once things changed. well...today it changed. i wasn't prepared. i wasn't ready.
our regular spot is safe. easy to get in to. user friendly. low stress. fun. super fun. you walk down some very safe stairs down to a nice sandy beach and then walk into the water. can't really beat it.
the new place is where the "real surfers" go. in fact...i noticed the little sign on the beach informing all participants that it is an "intermediate surf spot". well....i certainly wouldn't qualify myself as intermediate. far from it. i'd put myself square in the beginners category.
any how....there was no surf...so we had to move on. the first thing you do at the new spot is climb down a cliff (with your board in your hand), and then scale over algy covered slippery rocks to the water. sound fun? it threw me off mentally a bit to say the least. after that, i did ok. i caught two waves (on my knees), but the ocean just seemed so much bigger at the new place. like all of a sudden i was playing ball in an arena instead of on my local playground. the hoop was still 10' off the ground....but it just didn't seem the same.
so...that's it. i'm still sick and i'm going to try and get better before i have to sing this weekend. sharon and mag's are sick too....i'm sad for them. :-( alright...see you later gator.
take care.
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9 comments:
Sorry you guys are sick... wishing you well soon! I'm sure you'll be at home in the big waves soon... by the way, I'm going to post something just for you at my blog... be sure to check it out...
Sorry you guys are sick. But thanks for the post. It wouldn't have felt like a complete day without SOMETHING. And good luck with that new surf spot. I have to admit that I DO love knowing that you'll be getting dirty on your way to the water. But you can do it!!! Think of how much you're going to improve in the next few months! YOU GO!
That bites that you guys aren't feeling well... Do you need a big pot of homemade chicken soup? It also does not sound fun to climb down cliffs and algae covered rocks either... But you know what it will make you a better surfer! So just look at it as growth. It is a change and it is uncomfortable, but pretty soon your going to be laughing at that "intermediate" sign!
Hey! We're sick over here too Natalie! Why are you playing favorites. I haven't been offered any soup. SHEEZ!
OH - and you're right about a comment you left on my page today Nat. I just said to Steve that once school starts back for us this whole blogging thing is going to be so done and over with. How sad. Sigh.
I am SO sorry I didn't know that you guys were sick too! I wasn't playing favorites... Yep schools in bloggings out!
But, but.... I DON"T WANNA GO TO SCHOOL!!! I wanna blog....
You went surfing while sick?!?! And Sharon didn't kill you?!
Sorry ya'll feel bad, I hope you feel better soon. Just a tip, rest tends to help the healing process ;)
hope you are all well soon!
hope you can go back to "your spot" just as soon!
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