ok....surf report.....we went to pleasure point this morning....the bigger surf spot i told you about last time. i still had a little trepidation about the cliff and the rocks and stuff...but i braved it anyways. it was a lot easier today. i didn't fall...and i didn't feel like i was going to fall either. ace! the sky's were clear and blue...sun was out. and yours truly caught two waves, full on. all i wanted was to NOT get skunked today...and i did better then that! awesome. it was practically a scene from endless summer (thanks bob). so i feel good. more confident about going back there next time. i guess it did help that i reviewed my 'how to surf pleasure point' article in surfing magazine. ha! i know...i'm a dill. but seriously...it was a great morning. i had my pico pica with my homemade burritos. all is well with the world....less of me...more of you!
cheers!
5 comments:
Yeah! I'm so glad you had a great surf day! I was praying for you!
Duuuuuuuuuuuuuude! Proud of you J.
Good for you. That's awesome!
"Dill?"
"Ace?"
So proud of you handling the ocean like that!!!
Yay Jeramy!!! Two full-on waves, that is great!
I gotta admit, I totally thought dill was an alden reference until I saw your link. I don't remember if that's what dill meant in his movie, but wasn't the name of it "Dill"?
Anyway, I am wondering how much of that Australian slang you are adopting, this could get interesting...
Post a Comment