Thursday, September 1, 2011

surf report

i know....really.  i went surfing yesterday.  with the exception of our vacation in the spring, this was the first time i had gone with my regular group of surf buddies in over a year.  i guess it's still technically summer although no one seems to have sent the memo to northern california.  but yesterday was a lot like winter surf.  big and thick and BIG.  did i mention big? 

we were at 38th in santa cruz and i stayed in the kiddie pool section away from the real surfers.  but i got in my wet suit, got in the water, and had a couple of waves pick me up and sling me toward the shore like a giant liquid sling shot.  so, epic or not...i guess i did what i set out to do. 

i'm going to be working on some stuff to hopefully get better at surfing.  i really do want to make that a priority.  i'll let you know what's happening soon.  so, until are some images from yesterday.  have a great day!

cowell's was flat so we moved on...

it was firing a little bit south from pleasure point to 38th and the hook.

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