Wednesday, September 22, 2010

surf report: 38th

yahoo! i went surfing today. i haven't been since april 1. can you believe that? over 5 months with no surf....well, it's understandable really. we've had quite a lot going on in the last few months.

any how. today was beautiful! our usual spot at cowell's in santa cruz had no surf so we drove over to 38th...the break is right in front of jack's house. no joke! i got a couple of good waves. one in particular was probably the fastest wave i've ever been on....i didn't totally catch it on purpose, but...i caught it non the less. :-) i could really tell that i hadn't been in a long time. i was totally out of breath and sore from paddling....but it was still great to be out there. i'm hoping this will be the beginning of getting back into the swing of a more regular surf schedule. all in all....a great day!

something i think you'll be interested of my surf buddies has started a new business that i'm super excited about. wallers woodies. my buddy bob is making super cool, hand made, custom long board skateboards. isn't that rad!!! he's just getting things off the ground, and already getting some great opportunities. we talked today about his new website that is being built and let me tell's going to be amazing! since his official website isn't up and running yet, do me a favor and friend request him on his facebook page. be sure and tell him i sent you cause i told him that i have the best blog readers in the world! word up! thanks!

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