Wednesday, January 6, 2010

surf report: cowells beach, i went surfing LAST week...can't believe it's taken me this long to post a surf report. so, i'll keep it short.

i got skunked.

know what that means? skunked....didn't catch a wave. not one! wait....hold on...i did catch like 1 1/2 waves. but for close to 2 hours of surfing...that's not nearly enough. i blame the fact that i missed the time before. that's it. that's a good excuse, right?

there were waves though. and in all honesty, i did have fun. it's always fun once i start walking down that long stair case getting ready to get in the water. it's fun sitting out on my board waiting for the next set to come in. it's fun to see the wave coming, turn and start paddling for it....and then the feeling...oh wow....of that sheet of water picking you up. that makes it all worth it. even if it only happened 1 1/2 times in 2 hours.'s the best!

so that's it. enjoy your day. also, if you haven't had a chance to donate to the Booker Family Fund, please CLICK HERE. thanks for your generosity!

less of me...

1 comment:

Wendy Z said...

isn't it cold sitting there in the water waiting??