Well....some of you know...but most of you do not....I started to learn to surf last year. I've been very bad about going out on a regular basis and as a consequence it feels like the first time....EVERY TIME I go out. I've always loved the ocean. I don't have a fear of drowning or being eaten by something...or anything like that...but I've got to say, the toughest part of "surfing" is actually getting out to the waves. I went out yesterday morning to Cowells in Santa Cruz and had a blast. I caught 3 waves....whoohooo and I'll tell you...the feeling of that water picking you up and carrying you is worth the hour and a half of getting beat up. It's the most amazing feeling. There were times that I would be paddling out to the break and it felt like I was standing still. I was exerting energy....but the energy coming against me was to strong and kept me from moving forward. In some cases it would even push me backwards. It's frustrating to be "trying" to work hard and having that sense (heck, flat out proof) that your own energy...your own strength is powerless to overcome that which comes against you. I needed something more. Like a seadoo or something. Something with more power then the wave. It's like that in life sometimes. We need more then our own strength. I've found that strength in God. This week, even in a really tough moment, I not only stood up in the wave, I actually moved forward! Pretty cool.
Cool...I hope you're doing well. I'll talk to you soon.